Sunday, October 26, 2014

Unexpected moment

At the tail end of this week's malaise of minor light bulb moments ... came this morning.


I had made up my mind last night that I needed to get in to the water... to clear out some of the cobwebs... and I was going out - no matter what.

This day was probably not anything all that spectacular to most everyone else around here. Certainly, this was nothing like days people up north see this time of year, orange leaves fluttering in the clear blue sky, dappled hillsides in the distance, the chill air welcome and invigorating, taking you back to when you were a kid when anything was possible.

Dreams die.

But, this seemed sort of like a dream I always have. The water was crystal clear, a bright mint green. You could see all the way to the sandy bottom. Brian said it scared him at one point when he saw his shadow.  There were so many little barrels to be had, lined up with lovely tapered shoulders, and they kept coming non-stop.  I wore my spring suit for the first time, it was downright cold when I walked out this morning.  But, the water was still holding the last breath of summer's warmth.

I went to Summerhaven first and was let down.  The tide was too high, it was slow, and I could see I would be frustrated if I paddled out there.  I went to Mary Street and everything clicked.  The lines were coming in and no one was anywhere to be seen.  It was small, granted, nothing to write about from the looks of it.  But, once out in it, the sun sparkling like diamonds on the faces of the crystal waves that peeled off in the sun with glorious precision... it was a gift... and I was taking everything I could grab.

Andy pulled onto the beach in his jeep and then took off.  I was surprised. I thought, did he not see that little tube I just got?  He had.  He hadn't brought his board with him when he checked it, thinking there was nothing, and suddenly he was screeching back home to grab it. Then he came out, laughing like crazy, and we both caught endless crystal waves on our taters and giggled like kids.  Nick and Brian came out soon after him.

LANGATANG!  

He said he could touch the bottom with his feet and actually see them, as he sat on his board waiting on the inside for another peeler.  And then another.  And another.

Here is the end of one little wave I caught, and if you look closely you can see me laughing.



Here is Nick on his longboard snagging one...


After two and a half hours of this, I couldn't paddle anymore.  It was non-stop out there the morning. And, just what we needed to forget about our troubles for awhile.




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