Life is so funny

I have been reading through my old surf trip journals the past few weeks. All those surf trips seem so long ago. But, when I realized just how many I have been on, and all the memories I had the sense to write down, I was amazed. All those things might have been forever forgotten.

There were so many surprises there!  So many times, in my need for validation, I wrote down comments that guys would make about my surfing - and it was such a gift for the now. I was wistful, as I read them, thinking those days are gone. No one says I am surfing good much anymore, now that I am a senior surfer - and why would I ever expect anyone to, except given the fact that I am this old and can still do a cutback. Back then, it was always, "pretty good, for a girl."  Now, it's more like 'pretty good for being elderly.'

But, yesterday there came an unexpected gem. I was surfing at Summer Haven with Bob in little gutless waves. It was one of those days ... the last warmth of the summer ocean is slowly fading away ... spring suits, and grey skies.  I was just out there, having fun with Bob on the tater, when this guy paddled up to me smiling.  He said, "You would have loved the conversation we were having up on the beach about you!"  Oh yeah, I asked, what was that?  He said he had said to his friend, "Look at that kid out there, skipping school!" Then his friend had said, "I think that might be a girl,"  To which he replied, "No way!  No girl surfs like that!"  Ha ha ha, how I laughed.

Thanks for making my day. Even if it was tinged with that same old 'for a girl' qualifier.