Woo Hoo! We are up to two days of surf this month

This is the second one and the first was so pathetic I didn't even post it.  Back on Sunday, December 7th, a one star day at 8th St. where the tide was fat and the waves were, too.  I think we got three waves each before the wind blew it out.  Ugh.

Great December so far.

Then there was today.  We have had this freaky 16 second period swell for DAYS now, but the wind has been all wonky and the temperatures too cold to make up for it.  But, today I waited for the wind to go west (as predicted on swell.info at 10am), which it did, and I went for it.  Dang cold!

I wore my boots, wimp that I am.  Who cares?  I was the only one out at Mary St. except for two or three guys down by the ramp.  It was clean, finally, but had dropped to chest high.  All I want is quality, and I got a taste of it.  Nothing like South Florida, or Puerto Rico, and my heart breaks to think about Tobago, or Jamaica, or Petit Havre in Guadeloupe. Cocoa today looks like heaven.  Here, it was butt cold and the water is trying to green back up after the shore pounding bombs that it has endured for days on end.  One left I had made the paddle out worth it.  The Dominator just felt so positive and just went up so high on that lip and down that I was smiling like a damn idiot the entire paddle back outside.

But, overall, it was a lot of waiting, and I missed about three that I was kicking myself over, that wedged up perfectly when I was not in the right spot to really get them the way I wanted. Oh, well, it felt good to be out there, freezing and losing feeling in my hands.  One month until... Ecuador!